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時間的魅力 | The Charm of Time

喜歡葡萄酒的朋友們,對Jackson Family Wines集團的名字相信不會陌生。美國加州葡萄酒家族 Jackson Family Wines,一直以擁有世界各地優質葡萄園及頂級酒莊而聞名於世,最近更為香港引入 Vérité 及 Cardinale 備受好評的2016 年份葡萄酒。

Jackson Family Wines is a brand of much popularity. This family-owned wine company, known for its high-end portfolio of wineries and vineyards around the world, introduce the highly acclaimed 2016 vintage wines from Vérité and Cardinale to Hong Kong. Vérité and Cardinale represent two of the most prestigious Californian wineries.

 

 

 

如果說整個JFW集團是一頂王冠的話,王冠上的珍寶之一便是在1998年創立的Vérité酒莊。

酒莊名「Vérité」在法語中表示真理的意思,代表着所產的葡萄酒能忠實地展現土壤特徵,詮釋土壤的真理。釀酒師Pierre以舊世界工藝詮釋新世界原料,每支酒均由取自不同小區的優質葡萄精心混釀而成,以精湛的工藝和原料,把風土的特色完美地表現出來。Pierre稱這一理念為「產地主義」。

Vérité每年只釀造3款紅酒 : 以Merlot為主的La Muse,以Cabernet Sauvignon為主的La Joie 和以Cabernet Franc為主的Le Désir,3款在年輕時都是無可挑剔的均衡和擁有華麗的質感,但同時擁有可經長時間陳年後進一步邁進的潛力。

 

If the entire JFW group is a crown, one of its jewels is the Verite winery, founded in 1998.

The name “Vérité” means truth in French, which means that the wine produced can faithfully show the characteristics of the soil and interpret the terroirs. Vérité is located in Sonoma County, California where Vigneron Pierre Seillan carefully crafts each of the winery’s three distinctive blends from a mosaic of more than 50 micro-crus.

Each year, Vérité releases three blends – La Muse (Merlot-based), La Joie (Cabernet Sauvignon-based) and Le Désir (Cabernet Franc-based). Seillan masterfully tailors his winemaking techniques and oak regimens to the personality of each micro-cru, providing him with hundreds of unique components to form the compelling architecture of La Muse, La Joie and Le Désir.

 

 

 

而Cardinale則是JFW這頂皇冠上的另一顆寶石,Cardinale 酒莊於 1982 年成立,一直矢志要從納帕谷(Napa Valley)最高品質的葡萄園釀製出優秀的赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)單一葡萄酒。

時至今日,Cardinale 的出品已經遠遠超越大眾所期望。限量生產的赤霞珠葡萄酒,滋味強大而無縫細緻,毫無疑問能在開瓶後盡情享用,亦可儲存在酒窖中優雅地熟成。

 

Cardinale is another jewel of the crown, which was born in 1982, with a mission to produce a singular Cabernet Sauvignon from the highest-quality vineyards in Napa Valley.

Today, Cardinale has far surpassed all expectations. Limited in production, it’s a powerful and seamless Cabernet Sauvignon, with a track record for drinking deliciously upon release and maturing beautifully in the cellar.

 

 

 

日前筆者受邀參與了Vérité 及 Cardinale的垂直品嘗,深深為這幾款年輕的葡萄酒所驚艷。四款2016年份葡萄酒擁有著十分複雜的個性,深刻而精緻,數款2005-2008年份的葡萄酒更是優雅,單寧在陳年後變得柔和了許多,精緻的花果香卻仍然清晰,一改往日筆者對加州葡萄酒的印象。

 

I was invited to a straight tasting of Vérité and Cardinale and was impressed by the young wines. Four 2016 vintages have very complex personalities, deep and delicate, and several 2005-2008 vintages are even more elegant, with tannins becoming much softer after aging, and delicate floral and fruity flavors that are still obvious, changing my impression on California wines in the past.

 

 

品酒筆記 | Tasting Note:

 

Vérité 2016 La Muse

擁有明顯的黑李、紅醋栗及乾柑橘皮的香氣,混合皮革、 焦糖布甸與一點雲尼拿籽味道。黑色水果、烤雪松與黑醋栗組合成複雜的 風味層次,當中更帶有融化的黑朱古力、野百里香與肉桂等令人愉悅的滋 味。幼細而結實的單寧與明亮的酸度,則呈現成輕盈的結構,La Muse 標誌 性的悠長餘韻中亦充滿石質礦物感。

The 2016 La Muse features distinctly fragrant aromas of black plums, redcurrant and dried citrus peel mingling with traces of leather, creme brulee and notes of vanilla bean. Black fruit, toasted cedar, and cassis form intricately flavorful layers with hints of melted dark chocolate, wild thyme, and cinnamon to delight the palate. Powdery yet firm tannins and bright acidity provide an effortless structure, while a stony minerality reveals itself in La Muse’s signature lengthy finish.

 

Vérité 2016 La Joie

成功將矚目的風味與優雅的收結完美結合,2016 年份 La Joie 匯聚了濃郁的紅醋栗、多汁的紅李與清新的石榴,並融合新鮮薄荷、少許鼠尾草與乾丁香。索諾瑪產區的口感風味從葡萄酒中完全呈現,帶有乾黑加侖子與溫暖覆盆子蜜餞的味道,且富有充沛的滋味香氣,好像新鮮松針、大黃、新鮮月桂葉和濕潤砂礫的泥土元素,展現強烈的結構,同時伴上柔順、精緻的 單寧和強酸度。

The perfect combination of striking flavours with an elegant finish, the 2016 La Joie incorporates bold redcurrants, juicy red plums, and bright pomegranates infused with fresh mint, a dash of sage and dried cloves. The wine’s Sonoma provenance shines through on the palate with flavors of dried blackcurrants and warm raspberry compote. Abundant savory notes with undertones of fresh pine needles, rhubarb, fresh bay leaf, and an earthy element of wet gravel are complemented by a muscular structure with supple, refined tannins, and strong acidity.

 

Vérité 2016 Le Désir

將壓碎的成熟黑醋栗、燉甜李與石榴糖漿完美結合,再與乾百里香、新鮮綠薄荷和精緻玫瑰花瓣的結合出平衡感,讓每一口 Le Desir 展現複雜而充滿活力的層次。充滿動感的風味和質感中,注入了鐵質礦物感,黑色水果、 溫暖烘麵包、雲尼拿籽、八角與新鮮丁香,在餘韻中連綿擴散。細膩的單寧和酸度呈現強烈而清新的收結,帶來與其他新世界葡萄酒不同的風味。

Perfectly combining the aromas of crushed ripe blackcurrants, stewed sweet plums and grenadine in harmony with dried thyme, touches of fresh spearmint and delicate rose petals, every sip of Le Desir unravels complex, vibrant layers. Iron minerality adds to the ensemble of dynamic flavors and textures, as black fruit meets warm toast, vanilla bean, star anise, and fresh clove to linger after the last sip. The fine-grained tannins and acidity present an intensity and freshness for a unique finish unlike any other New World wine.

 

Cardinale 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon

這款呈深紅石榴色至紫色的 2016 年份紅酒,以 89% Carbernet Sauvignon 與 11%  Merlot 混釀。葡萄酒初段展現明顯的朱古力與甘草香氣,並以黑色及紅色醋栗、溫暖的李子與烘焙香料作風味核心,亦綴上雪松木櫃與鉛筆芯的香氣。圓滿的酒體呈現黑醋栗和櫻桃利口酒的層次味道,構成堅實帶顆粒感的單寧及清新香氣,展現悠長帶辛辣的餘韻。

The deep garnet-purple colored 2016 Proprietary Red Wine is blended of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Merlot. It opens with compelling chocolate box and licorice scents over a core of black and red currants, warm plums and baking spices with hints of cedar chest and pencil lead. The palate is full-bodied with layers of cassis and kirsch flavors framed by firm, grainy tannins and fabulous freshness, finishing long and spicy.