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Innovations Bring Excellence 創新成就卓越未來

Innovations Bring Excellence 創新成就卓越未來

Cru Magazine

Text: Eddie Chui

每當談到意大利葡萄酒,大家總會想起3B:Barolo、Barbaresco及Brunello di Montalcino。Brunello di Montalcino也是意大利葡萄酒產中早於1980年獲得最高DOCG級別的四個產區之一。產區歷史可追溯到十四世紀。而當中最為人熟悉的酒莊之一,Castello Banfi更被認為是把Brunello帶到世界酒壇,並將這位於意大利中部的產區帶到摩登紀元。踏入酒莊四十週年,第三代掌舵人Cristina Mariani May更遠赴香港,將酒莊的前世今生跟我們分享。

平民奢華

雖然Cristana生於美國,但卻是不折不扣的意大利人,擁有對家族及葡萄酒的熱誠。大學是曾修讀藝術史,因此也回到佛羅倫斯一段時間,完全感受到意大利葡萄酒文化、歷史、旅遊,在完成MBA課程後,她想也沒想便進入家族的葡萄酒生意,除了葡萄酒貿易,當然還回到了漂亮的意大利Tuscany,加入Castello Banfi酒莊的團隊當中。她立志跟隨祖父的目標,釀造最純淨、美味的Brunello di Montalcino葡萄酒。而更重要的是就算他們酒莊位於意大利最高級的葡萄酒產區之一,他們也希望釀造容易親近的葡萄酒。因此除了數款頂級葡萄酒外,他們的Brunello價格十分平易近人,但品質同樣出色。能夠達到這個目標全憑他們擁有區內數一數二規模的葡萄園,達到200多公頃,整個團隊就像是一家人,由葡萄農到釀酒團隊都有著同樣的理念,而且多年來的發展,不再單是傳統,只面向意大利的酒莊,而是走出國際,讓大家都知道意大利Brunello這個優秀產區的存在。Cristina笑說回到酒莊工作是種享受,在這風光如畫的地方,釀造人人喜愛的Brunello葡萄酒,而且是人人都可以買得起的頂級酒釀。

創新理念

我們曾經到訪Castello Banfi,在山上那古典的城堡餐廳中用膳,然後來到酒莊大本營,跟在Montalcino其他傳統酒莊十分不同,乾淨、整齊,而且規模宏大,而最特別的是那個以橡木結合不銹鋼而成的發酵槽,那是B

anfi研發團隊的成果!「說到Banfi的創新,由祖父時在1978年創立Banfi時已是我們的理念之一,我們投資自己的研究所,對葡萄園土壤、葡萄品種、釀酒技術不斷研發,這個不銹鋼結合橡木的發酵槽也取得了專利,是我們為釀造更出色我葡萄酒而研發的。在創新的同時,我們堅守傳統,因為土地、葡萄都是從這遍充滿歷史的土地傳承下來的,我們的任務是把整個地區推向另一高峰,面對現代的全球市場。」今年是酒莊四十週年,他們推出了一瓶非常特別的四十週年紀念酒款,是一瓶由1978年至2017年,四十個年份的葡萄酒調配而成,可說是將Banfi四十年的歷史傾注到這瓶酒之中。

可持續性發展

現代化的酒莊運作,讓Banfi取得三個ISO認證,也是全意大利第一家。近年更大力推動酒莊的可持續性發展,投入大量的資源。Cristina解釋道:「我們在這個著名產區擁有這樣大規模的珍貴土地,當然希望能好好延續下去。因此我們以這方式好好保護當地的生態環境,不論是周邊的農地、森林、水源等等,我們都去好好保護,避免使用化學物質,讓土地健康,並減少水土流失。成本絕對不低,但我們不想因為減省成本而使用化學物,因為不單對品質影響,對整個地區也是種長遠的傷害。」他們堅信這樣才能夠釀造更優秀的葡萄酒,而且能世世代代傳頌下去,讓世人知道Montalcino能以Sangiovese釀造出如此優秀的葡萄酒。

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio alle Mura 2012

這是酒莊的單一葡萄園頂級之作,以位於200米以上山坡上葡萄園所栽種的Sanigovese所釀造,經歷了三年多的熟成,包括在法國橡木桶及大型斯洛伐克橡木槽中陳釀兩年,裝瓶後再經過熟成多整整三年才推出。帶深紅的酒體,香氣豐盈具層次,帶黑櫻桃、李子及香辛料香氣。入口細滑,具扎實的結構及單寧,但跟豐厚的果香平衡得宜,收結悠長甜美,在接下來的十年、二十年將慢慢演變。

Enquiry:ASC Fine Wines // 3923 6700 // asc-wines.com

by 30 Jan, 2019
超越傳統的Prosecco

超越傳統的Prosecco

Wine

近年意大利氣酒Prosecco在世界各地大行其道,簡單清爽的口感,加上價格相宜,純對是炎炎夏日的消暑良伴,這個位於意大利東北部的產區也越受關注。加上近年這個氣泡酒產區品質提高不少,加上擁有有利的地利位置,北部被Dolomites山脈保護,南部卻有Adriatic海的海風滋潤葡萄,並減低熱力,令當地二萬公頃葡萄園的葡萄得以健康成長,令Glera擁有平易近人的花果香,適合用來配襯前菜及第一主菜( Primi),絕對是高性價比的選擇。而今次訪問主角Villa Sandi,更是當中實力派的表表者,受世界各地的酒評人肯定,也在我們以往舉辦的品試中酒莊的頂級酒釀如Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze La Rivetta得到最高評價。早前我們跟Villa Sandi的莊主Mr. Giancarlo Moretti Polegato專訪,不單談到他們的氣泡酒,還有出色的紅酒。

Marca Trevigiana山腳下的美麗酒莊Villa Sandi是當地的。Moretti Polegato家族自1622年便開始葡萄酒業,其16世紀文藝復興的主大樓,從前是曾經接待多個貴族如拿破崙一世及雕塑家Antonio Canova等的別墅,金碧輝煌的玻璃吊燈,很有歐陸式的華麗感覺;地下酒窖長達1.5公里,為葡萄酒提供優良的陳釀環境,極有參觀價值。

雖然酒莊位於Prosecco di Valdobbiadene 及Mon-tello e Piave之間的DOC地區,卻分別於DOC及DOCG地區擁有三個葡萄園,當中最好是106.8公頃的葡萄園La Rivetta,它位於Cartizze區的心臟地帶,在 Valdobbiadene最著名的地區Santo Sefano及San Pietro di Barbozza之間,葡萄樹裁種在充滿鈣質的黏土山坡上,加上獨有的微氣候,就造上乘的Glera,用來酒莊的頂級酒釀如Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze La Rivetta,它帶芳香的香蕉、熱帶果及焦糖味 。

在發明Charmat酒槽二次發酵前,傳統的Prosecco都是以瓶內發酵釀造,跟香檳一樣。

提到Villa Sandi的最新動向,當然是酒莊以傳統方法,在瓶內作二次發酵的Opere 酒款系列,Opere Serenissima DOC及其他酒款。Giancarlo解釋道:「在發明Charmat酒槽二次發酵前,傳統的Prosecco都是以瓶內發酵釀造,跟香檳一樣,而Charmat法讓成本降低,而且更能突顯Prosecco的清爽怡人風格。這系列Opere酒款是以傳統方法,復現Proseeco優雅的一面。 而且跟傳統以Glera葡萄釀造的Copere氣泡酒有點不同的是,我們只採用Chardonnay及Pinot Nero(Pinot Noir)葡萄釀造,表現我們優秀的Terroir之餘,酒體及層次更為突出,是個讓人興奮的企劃。」由2001年開始展開的計劃終於要出來了,我們一同品嚐了 Rieserva Amalia Moretti酒款,除渣前在瓶內熟成七年的酒款,帶優雅的花香,酒體醇美,帶點烤烘的味道,收結具良好的酸度,帶點乾果的成熟香氣。

而較資深或者對意大利酒迷,也會知道位於Verona附近的這個產區還有釀造其他葡萄酒,尤其是以Merlot或Cabernet Sauvignon為主的紅葡萄酒,常有不少佳作,而Villa Sandi也不例外,Giancarlo展示的Corpore及Filio酒款,分別以Merlot及Cabernet釀造。他們展現出當地人對優秀葡萄酒的想法,喝起來非常工整,充滿果香的同時,帶豐厚而圓潤的酒體,收結單寧細緻,具有結構,是有力跟Tuscany的名釀競爭的酒款。以後提到清爽的Prosecco,大家也不要忘記這些華麗精緻的紅葡萄酒。

by 12 Aug, 2016

VinExpo Asia Pacific 2014- interview with Ms. Marinella Maioran from Fontanafredda

Wine

 

Winery: Fontanafredda
Country: Italy
Region: Langhe
Interviewee: Ms. Marinella Maioran

The estate’s noble past is still evident at Fontanafredda today in the hunting lodge, hamlet, extensive cellars and vineyards, but it continues to innovate and experiment, perfecting what nature and history have handed down.

This is why, in the Langhe, where the landscape is marked by the vines and wines that have linked generations down the years, Fontanafredda continues to stand out as a point of reference: the expression of a wine culture that stems from the land and the vineyard, and matures through the work and creativity.

by 26 Jun, 2014

VinExpo Asia Pacific 2014- interview with Mr. Fabrizio Nencioni from Agricola San Felice

Wine

 

Winery: Agricola San Felice
Country: Italy
Region: San Felice
Interviewee: Mr. Fabrizio Nencioni

Always un-compromising quality
San Felice’s philosophy is embodied in its overall commitment to pursuing total excellence, a goal achieved by means of research and experimentation, as well as by our determination to maintain a vital relationship with the local terroir and with local typical wine.

We have consistently followed, from the 1970s right up to the present day, a policy of continuous improvement, constantly updating our vineyard management practices and modernizing winemaking technology. Efforts are always directed towards growth and development, but at the same time they are informed by a sense of responsibility for our land and by a desire to preserve the traditions that have been passed down to us, a heritage that should not only be preserved but to which we must contribute as well.

Website: www.agricolasanfelice.com

by 23 Jun, 2014

VinExpo Asia Pacific 2014- interview with Mr. Roberto Felluga from Marco Felluga

Wine

Winery: Marco Felluga
Country: Italy
Region: Isola d’Istria
Interviewee: Mr. Roberto Felluga

From the Sea to the Land.
A Vocation Cultivated Generation After Generation Isola d’Istria, on the coast, was the production point of origin of Malvasia and Refosco. The Great War had just finished and it was a happy destiny that made the family set foot in Grado, on the other side of the Gulf, and then in Friuli. Only a handful of kilometres, but the scenery changed radically. It was here that Giovanni’s second to last son, Marco, as his grandfather before him, discovered, fell in love with and chose to live in that area called Collio which has always had the vine and wine at its heart. Marco began his training at the prestigious Oenological School of Conegliano and it is he who directed the family business towards the path of innovation with an emphasis on quality and research which is now carried on by his son Roberto, representing the fifth generation, with renewed passion and devotion. He is now at the head of the two prestigious wineries located in the Collio DOC, Marco Felluga in Gradisca d’Isonzo and Russiz Superiore in Capriva del Friuli.

Website: www.marcofelluga.it

by 18 Jun, 2014
吃盡意國 美酒晚宴

吃盡意國 美酒晚宴

Dining

隆堡麗景酒店靚景餐廳AVA Slash Bar將於3月24日推出只此一晚的酒配菜晚宴,找來意大利著名葡萄酒Molino di Sant’Antimo 配上意籍大廚Massimo Santovito出品,還邀得酒莊兩位釀酒師Giulia及Valeria駐場,即席分享品酒心得。

五道菜極富意大利各地特色,如大廚家鄉Puglia的貓耳朵麵配茴香籽及燉馬肉蔬菜、西西里旗魚薄切配水芹及檸檬橄欖油,以及托斯卡紅酒香草燉雉雞配白粟米餅等,配上六款紅黑果及礦物味豐富的葡萄酒,如清爽的Molino di Sant’Antimo Chardonnay IGT Toscana 2012、強而有力的托斯卡尼酒王Molino di Sant’Antimo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2008,還有以80% 晚收Cabernet Sauvignon釀成的甜酒 Molino di Sant’Antimo’a quattro mani’Vendemmia Tardiva IGT 2010等,每位$738,3月14日前預訂只需$658,超值!

12519242985_eab470c6f3_b ROSSO DI MONTALCINO-3 MORELLINO DI SCANSANO BLU LABEL-2

AVA Restaurant Slash Bar
Tel: 3550 0262
Website: www.hotelpanorama.com.hk

by 24 Feb, 2014