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Best mate with sake the freshest in Tsukiji 清酒最佳伴侶  築地直擊即日鮮

Sashimi is definitely the best mate with Sake. In July, white fish is the best. Mellow fish oil with a sip of crispy Sake, never better. Hong Kong people pursue quality as always, in dinning also. “Freshly caught”, “great season” etc have become the gimmick these days. Even Sen-ryo has used “morning caught, enjoy at evening” as slogan, and now Sashimi is not such high rise now. This time, we went to Japan to find its origin.

若要為清酒找一個伴侶,刺身絕對是首選。七月份,漁產中尤以白身魚最為肥美,甘醇芳香的魚油配一口清爽淡麗的清酒,必是天生一對。近年,香港人對刺身要求愈來愈高,不時不食、即日鮮等字眼,一一成為美味的代名詞,就連中價的千両都以「朝捕‧晚嚐」作招徠,讓貴價刺身更親民。今趟讓我們飛到日本直擊美味源頭。

 

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Fresh marine in 12 hours
12小時內的鮮活漁產

“A decade ago, Salmon is regarded as great treasure in Hong Kong. Salmon sushi, Sashimi was all an unforgettable experience. But the trend has changed in recently years. White fish like Hamachi is getting more fans of the fresh and sweet fish oil.” Said executive chef Tat, who worked in Sen-ryo for more than 10 years.

In order to meet the palate in Hong Kong, Sen-ryo has worked with Sanji, the largest distributor in Tsukiji, bringing fresh marine from there. Of course, chef and his team regularly visit Tsukiji to ensure quality. In this trip we followed the team, going to Nagai Port first, witnessing fishing boat with their tons of rewards.

Then we went straight into the centre of Tsukiji, observing how Mr. Yamasaki, director of Sanji do the buying and auction. Lastly we tasted the most freshest sea, understanding that it is not an easy task of freshness.

「十年前香港人視三文魚為珍品,花之戀、數十元一磅三文魚等,相信都是大家的兒時回憶。近五年香港人口味開始改變,鍾情於白身魚,如油甘魚、池魚等,愛嚐其清甜的魚油。」在千両工作十多年的行政總廚總廚達哥道出近年香港日菜的走勢。

面對要求愈來愈高的香港人,千両早已跟築地最大批發商山治合作,從日本各地網羅時令漁產,而達哥及一班採購專員亦定期前往當地考察。像此行我們跟著千両採購大軍,先到山治其中一個入貨魚港「長井魚港」,親睹魚船回航,將成千上萬噸漁產卸貨;再踩入築地禁地,直擊山治老闆山崎康弘先生採購及拍賣情況;最後跟漁產一同回港,品嚐上水不足12小時的即日鮮,讓大家知道一塊上乘的鮮活刺身,得來不易!

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One day buyer in Tsukiji
當一天築地買手

Freshness is a main factor, and also the experience of buyer who can turn the game. Therefore, Sen-ryo is fully trusted in Mr. Yamasaki.

The family of Yamasaki  has been working in marine field for 300 years. Mr. Yamasaki  had worked in many places, learning to choose, cut and cook fishes. He took the family business 23 years ago, joining hands with 2 of his brothers. It now has 20 stores in Tsukiji, and supply to more than 700 restaurants, including starred Michelin.

Sanji has developed so rapidly, all thanks to the hard work of Mr. Yamasaki . You shall see his face every morning in Tsukiji market, checking out different gains from all around Japan. His brother will participate in different auctions, buying the finest ingredient for their customers, including Sen-ryo. Now we followed Mr. Yamasaki, going deep into  the heart of Tsukiji.

新鮮是美味的主要元素,然而,漁產本身的質素也非常重要,一個經驗採購員是整體關鍵。這一點,千両則放心交由築地最大的批發商山治負責人山崎康弘先生負責。

山崎先生世世代代從事漁產多達300年,兩歲便接觸魚類的他,曾到澳洲魚市場實習,學習揀魚、刀工、烹調等,吸收經驗;直至23年前接手家族事務,夥拍兩位親兄弟,在短短日子間,其築地的舖位由4個增至20個,成為全場最大的批發商。如今山治於國內及國外約有700間供貨點,當中不乏米芝蓮餐廳。

能夠做到與別不同,全因山崎先生事事親力親為,除了親赴各漁港找定期供應商外,他每早便在車水馬龍的築地市場內,細看來自日本各地的漁產,看中這條金目鯛、那條飛魚?立即下標,價高者得;其弟弟山崎章由則參加各拍賣會,務求搜羅最上乘的食材,供給客人,當中千両便是其一。今次我們便跟著山崎先生,穿梭水涉不通的築地禁區。

 

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The perfect match in Summer-Namazake and white fish
生酒與白身魚仲夏完美組合

“White fish!”Mr. Yamasaki suggested this is a must-eat dish in this summer without second thought. Receiving increasing popularity in Hong Kong, white fish is a Sashimi with lesser fish oil than that of those general deep coloured fish. It is sweet with relatively refreshing and long fragrance. In addition to its crispy texture, it is thin enough to be served as a whole with a dip of soy sauce. In this summer, Sen-ryo mainly introduces seasonal white fish directly from Tsukiji in different ways, aimed to serve the best mellow oily for customers.

Louis, the chairman of Sake Culture Exchange Association, carefully selected Sake and said “Namazake best matches with the raw white fish. Sake is a Japanese wine without sterilized under high temperature. It has active carbonic acidwith 1 to 2% less alcohol level thus leading to its refreshing fruit aroma that keeps the fish as the main character. The layers in between the fish and Sake are even more outstanding.” He has also chosen Ichishima Honjyozo Namasake and Aumont Yume Jyunmaiginjyo Namasake from Ichishima Shuzo which has 200 years history. While the former is sometimes a bit strong and sometimes lighter, the later one is abundant with rice yeast smell. These sake are totally a perfect match with the seasonal white fish.

細問山崎先生,夏天有何必食款式,他即回答:「白身魚。」這款近年開始愛港人愛戴的刺身,魚油比一般深色魚較少,魚甜相對清香悠長,質感爽脆,加上魚身較細,可原條即點即食。千両今夏便推出「夏の旬魚」,以多款築地直送的時令白身魚作主打,如薄切池魚、薄切縞鰺伴紫蘇汁、鯖魚伴胡麻汁等,入口油甘甘醇芳香。

配酒則請來日本清酒交化交流會會長Louis精挑:「白身魚最啱配清爽淡麗的生酒。所謂生酒是指未有經過高溫處理殺菌,酒體活潑的碳酸菌、清爽帶果香,酒精度比一般清酒低一至兩度,不會奪去魚的風頭,又令魚及酒更有層次,效果相得益彰。」他選了擁有二百多年歷史的士島清酒廠的兩款生酒,包括「王紋夢純米吟釀生酒」及「市島本釀造生酒」,前者輕中有勁,後者富米麴香氣,與時令的白身魚絕對是完美的配搭。

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Ichishima Honjyozo Namasake $390/720ml

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Oyster $65/1pc; $248/4pcs

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Thin Cut Striped Jack Sashimi with Shiso Sauce $200

 

Sen-ryo
Shop B3-01, B3/F., The Kowloon Hotel, 19-21 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
2367 9368
www.sen-ryo.com.hk