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Baden – Where fairy tales begin

破曉時分

沉穩的中世紀建築散發著往昔繁華

溫熱的泉水繚繞著氤氳霧氣

沉浸其中,昏昏欲睡,搖搖欲墜

靈魂延伸出身體的邊際

一片靜謐中,思緒順著蜿蜒的河水

放下錯與對、是與非

穿梭在黑森林,不必擔心無路可退

亦無所求

傾聽穿林而過的光與滿目松香

酣暢淋漓,滿載而歸

When the dawn’s young,

The bygone prosperity is revealed by the medieval architecture.

Mist wreathes the warm spring water.

Immersed in it,

The soul extends beyond the body.

In peace, thoughts flow along the winding river

Let go of all distracting thoughts,

Shuttle in the Black forest with abandon,

In search of nothing,

Listen to the light and the rosin that passes through the forest,

And experience the unparalleled joy.

 

巴登是獨一無二的葡萄種植區。作為德國第三大葡萄種植區,德國一半以上的黑皮諾產自這裡。它一側受到奥登森林 (Odenwald) 和黑森林 (Schwarzwald) 山脉的庇佑,另一侧为伏盖森山脉 (Vogesen) 所遮护——巴登被賜予了德國最充足的陽光和最溫暖的氣候,號稱德國的“日光浴床”。 同時這裡可以為葡萄生長提供充足的水分——夏季的降雨可以為黑森林山區提供充沛的蓄水量。世界上沒有任何一個葡萄種植區能像巴登這樣,將熱量、日照、降雨等氣候因素組合得如此天衣無縫。這裡的葡萄能够生成優質糖分,藤蔓中富含礦物質,為釀造高品質葡萄酒提供了良好的自然條件。

當然,巴登享譽世界的不單止有頂級酒釀和美味佳餚,更有溫泉以及有人間仙境之稱的黑森林。

Baden is a unique wine-growing region. More than half of Germany’s pinot noir is grown in this country’s third largest wine-growing area. Baden is surrounded by the Odenwald and Schwarzwald mountains, and sheltered by the Vogesen mountains. Baden gains its uniqueness from Germany’s most abundant sunshine and warmest climate, and is known as the country’s “sunbed”. The exceptional location and climate also provide Baden with plenty of water for growing grapes that the Black forest mountains can storage plentiful water from summer rain. No other wine-growing region enjoys such heat, sunshine and rainfall as perfectly balanced as Baden. Its grapes contain high-quality sugar, and its vines are rich in minerals, providing right conditions for making fine-quality wine.

Baden is famous not only for its best wine and food but also for its hot springs and the Black forest, famed as a heaven on earth.

溫泉

巴登-巴登是德國黑森林邊緣歷史悠久的溫泉小鎮,長期以來一直是歐洲精英青睞的目的地。“Baden”就是“游泳、洗澡”的意思,“巴登-巴登”這個地名需要連用兩個“Baden”,可見這裡有多麼適合沐浴游泳。馬克吐溫在這裡泡完澡說:“10分鐘你會忘記時間,20分鐘你會忘記世界!”拿破崙三世,維多利亞女王,維克多·雨果,尼古拉·果戈理,甚至瑪琳·黛德麗都曾在這裡取水。

幸運的是,隨著時間的打磨,巴登-巴登並沒有變得黯然失色,在這裡,古樸年代與摩登時代重逢、碰撞。腓烈特和卡拉卡拉是巴登-巴登就最負盛名的溫泉浴場,都是古羅馬帝王的名字,氣勢非凡。

Baden-Baden, the historic spa town on the edge of Germany’s black forest, has long been a popular destination for European elites. “Baden” means “to swim and bathe” so the double “Baden” shows how good it is for bathing and swimming. Mark Twain said after his bath here: “10 minutes you will forget time, 20 minutes you will forget the world!” Napoleon iii, Queen Victoria, Victor Hugo, Nicola Gogol and even Marlene Dietrich fetched water here.

Fortunately, time does not take away the lustre of Baden-Baden. Here, the primitive age meets the modern era. Friedrichsbad Spa and Caracalla spa are the most famous thermal baths in Baden-Baden, both of which were the names of ancient Roman emperors.

腓烈特溫泉浴場建於130多年前,就建在兩千年前的羅馬浴場遺址之上。建築風格古典而恢弘,泡溫泉之餘,還可欣賞老建築。不過,它更為有名的是不著寸縷的男女共浴,以及多達17個步驟的洗浴流程。傳統,就是這樣的奔放而嚴謹。

The Friedrichsbad Spa was built more than 130 years ago, on top of a Roman bath site aged 2,000 years. The architecture is classical and grand. While soaking in the hot spring, you can also enjoy the view of the old buildings. It is better known, however, for the mixed bathing and the tedious 17-step process. Such bold and rigorous tradition!

卡拉卡拉則年輕許多,它建於30年前,是一座巨大的玻璃建築,通透敞亮,設施齊全,還有室內和室外之分。不同的是,這裡是可以穿泳衣進水的,倒可以看做是溫泉水聚成的游泳場。在溫泉裏游泳,想想也覺得是種奢侈的享受了。

沐浴完畢,在小鎮的酒館安坐下來,飲一杯醇美的葡萄酒,舒暢而愜意。

Caracalla spa is much younger. Built 30 years ago, it is a huge glass building, well equipped and divided to indoor and outdoor areas. Here you can wear a bathing suit into the water, but you can think of it as a pool of hot springs. It is such a luxury to swim in a hot spring!

After the bath, take a seat in a tavern and drink a glass of nice wine. Nothing in the wold is like this!

黑森林

黑森林位於德國西南巴符州山區,南北長160公里東西長60公里連綿起伏的山區內,密佈著大片的森林,由於森林樹木茂密,遠看一片黑壓壓的,因此得名。

屠格涅夫在給福樓拜的信中寫道:“來巴登。這是我見過的最壯麗的樹木,他們為眼睛和靈魂創造了奇迹。”許多格林童話中的故事,比如《白雪公主》、《灰姑娘》,發生背景就是在黑森林。看到叢林掩蓋中的小木屋,恍惚是身在某個童話中歷險。

黑森林全景之路(Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse,B500)是德國最美的公路之一,有60公里長,連接巴登-巴登(Baden-Baden)和佛羅伊登施塔特(Freudenstadt)。

遊覽黑森林,乘坐火車也是一種有趣的體驗。 從特裏貝格(Triberg)可以乘坐古老的蒸汽式火車行駛在20公里長的黑森林鐵路(連接Konstanz和Bodensee),穿越37公里體驗近500米的高度差,沿途景色美不勝收,童話般的森林、穿過霧氣繚繞的溪谷和田園牧歌式的村莊,如同到仙境漫遊了一趟——在這片溫柔而夢幻的景致里,淺嘗一杯巴登本地釀造的豐盈細膩的葡萄酒,豈不美哉。

The Black Forest, with 60km in its width from east to west and 160 km in its length from south to north, located in the south-west of Baden-Wuerttemberg. Covered with vast forests and big plants, looking like a dark mass from a distance, the Black forest, therefore, acquires fame.

Turgenev wrote to Flaubert: “Come to Baden. These are the most magnificent trees I have ever seen. They do wonders for the eyes and the soul.” Many of Grimm’s fairy tales, such as Snow White and Cinderella, are set in the Black Forest. Looking at the cabins in the jungle, one feels like transported to a fairy tale adventure.

B500 Road (Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse) is one of the most beautiful roads in Germany. It is 60 km long and connects Baden-Baden with Freudenstadt.

Taking the train to visit the Black forest is also an exciting experience. Visitors can take the old steam trains from Triberg and travel in the 20 km long black forest railway (from Konstanz to Bodensee). During the journey, visitors will experience the 500 meters height difference between the train and the ground, the beautiful scenery, the fairytale-like forest, the foggy valleys, and pastoral villages. Isn’t it a real delight to taste a glass of locally brewed wine with creamy and delicate texture in this tender and romantic scene?