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Best for Chinese? 中菜的最佳拍擋

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Image : Fai          Special Thanks : Chef Tsang, Ming Court, Langham Place

 

每當提起葡萄酒配中菜,你會想起什麼?波爾多紅酒?人氣之選的Pinot Noir?還是華麗的香檳呢?Alsace酒莊Trimbach的莊主Jean Trimbach有不一樣的見解。

What do you think of when we talk about Chinese food and wine pairing? Red Bordeaux? Trendy pinot noir? Or fabulous champagnes? Jean Trimbach, the owner of Trimbach from Alsace, offers a different view.

 

 

第一次來到香港,Jean Trimbach在明閣接受我們專訪時,給人的第一印象是一個具氣派的現代企管人,但原來他對酒莊的傳統是如此執著。他是第十二代的傳人,更哥哥Pierre Trimbach一同經營酒莊,Jean說道:「我們成長後就自然感到想去繼承父親的酒莊,他沒有強迫我們,我記得在十八、九歲的時候,父親開了一瓶Trimbach的1959年佳釀,自此我便立志繼承酒莊的工作。」談到跟哥哥的工作,他說:「Pierre他一早便立志成為釀酒師,入讀葡萄酒專門學校,在布根地Beaune研習釀酒技巧,也成為了現時Trimbach的釀酒師;而我 則處理業務上的工作,也作為酒莊的大使四出宣傳。」他形容Pierre像在廚房工作,而他則在飯廳,大家各不干預,只為最好而工作,發揮所長。

On first impression, Jean Trimbach looks like a modern executive. This is his first visit to Hong Kong. Indeed, he is a man of tradition—As the 12th generation running the family winery, he is now operating with his brother, Pierre Trimbach. Jean says: “Growing up, we came to take over our father’s work naturally. He never forced us. I remembered when I was 18 or 19, my father opened a bottle of Trimbach 1959, and I was inspired to join his work until now.” When talking about his brother, he said, “Pierre had always wanted to be a winemaker, and he was sent to study at Beaune in Burgundy. My job is to manage and work outside the cellar and go around the world, which is a job I like very much.” He compares Pierre to working in the Kitchen and himself as working in the dining room. They work independently, without interfering each other.

 

星級佐餐葡萄酒

說到這間酒莊,由1626年,十二代以來一直由同一家族經營,是Alsace的最佳酒莊之一,擁有40公頃優質的葡萄園,包括很多一級的葡萄園。而他們的傳統風格是釀造飽滿,帶著充足酸度而平衡的葡萄酒,最經典的是不甜的葡萄酒,能在現時普遍見到帶微甜Alsace葡萄酒中更顯突出。「除了Late harvest及SGN甜白酒外,我們的葡萄酒糖分在5g/L以下,這種不甜的風格是我人們的傳統,我們注重的是良好而平衡的酸度,就算是最酷熱的年份如1976,1983,2003也是如此。這酸度使整體酒質更優雅吸引。這種Alsace白酒的好處是使我們的酒跟食物配襯更完美。」事實上在世界25間米芝蓮三星級餐廳中,你都可以在酒單上找到Trimbach的葡萄酒,受到大廚及品酒師的認同。

Star Food Wines

Since 1626, Trimbach has been under the same family for twelve generations and is one of the best wineries in Alsace. They have 40 hectare of great vineyards, including some Grand Cru vineyards. Their traditional style is to make intense wines with great balance and good acidity. Instead of the off-dry wines that are usually found in Alsace, they are keen on producing dry wines. “Besides the late harvest and SGN sweet wine, we also produce dry wines of under 5g/l residual sugar. This is our tradition. We focus on good balance with acidity, which will support the wines much better. Even in the hottest years like 1976, 1983 and 2003, we keep this acidity with much elegance. This kind of Alsace whites are the best wines to pair with different kinds of fine food.” In 25 Michelin 3-starred restaurants around the world, you will find Trimbach in their wine lists, a great recognition by the best chefs and sommeliers.

 

1. 薑蔥蓉粉皮蝦片、窩巴素燴、酸薑煙燻桂魚凍

Chilled bean jelly with butterfly shrimps, mashed ginger and spring onion vegetarian crispy rice, chilled smoked Mandarin fish with preserved young ginger

Trimbach Riesling AOC 2009

 

 

Jean也認為他們的酒跟中菜也會完美配合。「我走遍不同地方,也品嚐過不同中菜餐廳的不同菜色,由海鮮為主的菜式,到由肉類為主的地方菜;由味道清淡的到味道濃烈的都有,我們一系列的葡萄酒都可配合得宜。」事實上,當晚在明閣的各款不同菜式都能跟Trimbach的多款葡萄酒配合得宜,不單口味清淡的班球,還是清湯牛腩,都配得十分稱職。

Jean also thinks that their wines pair well with the Chinese food. “I have been to different countries, tasted different Chinese food from great restaurants, including seafood and meat dishes that range from light to heavy taste. Our series of wines pair with them very well.” The dinner at Ming Court also revealed their potential in pairing with all kinds of different cuisine from China, from the light garoupa roll to heavy braised beef.

 

隱姓埋名的Grand Cru

「我們的酒是來自Alsace最好的terroir,最好的葡萄、最好的泥土、釀酒師,加上氣候,做就穩定的酒質,細緻的葡萄酒,紅酒,你需要細滑的單寧,白酒,你需要的是細緻平衡的酸度,」Jean解釋道:「我有最好的釀酒師,我的哥哥,他不會離開,也不會改變酒莊的風格,只會不斷做得更好。」值得留意的是,Trimbach的葡萄酒不會看到Grand Cru的字樣,即使有一些是來自那些Grand Cru葡萄園。「我們注重傳統,在未有Grand Cru分類的時候我們已釀造Grand Cru級數的葡萄酒,我們只注重保持自己的品牌分級法,不會為吸引人而加上Grand Cru字樣。雖然我認同1983的Grand Cru立法的確有助驅動區內的酒業不斷進步。」

Unrevealed Grand Cru

“Our wine is made from the best terroir in Alsace, the best soil, best grapes, best winemaker, with the help of the microclimate, which results in consistent quality which is very elegant. For red, you want smooth silky tannins; for white wine, you want elegant acidity,” Jean said, “We have the best winemaker who is my brother. He will never leave, and will not change our style but will make improvements.” Although Trimbach wines are not labeled with Grand Cru, they come from Grand Cru vineyards. “We care about tradition. We have our own labels and classification long before the Grand Cru Legislation, and we keep them. I agree the move in 1983 helps the Alsace wineries to move on to make progress.”

 

 

2. 白玉蒸星斑球
Steamed spotted garoupa fillet with yunnan ham and winter melon in clear chicken soup

Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Émile AOC 2004

 

德國Riesling

我最欣賞Trimbach的Riesling
Cuvée Frédéric Emile,他的不甜風格,果味豐滿、酸度平衡,收結悠長細緻,另我想起德國的Riesling。「比起德國,Alsace的夏天更長,而晚上的清涼可保持酒的香味,而且也比德國少雨;當然德國也有不少好酒及TBA,例如我的好朋友Egon Muller的白酒不錯啊,我也收藏不少他的TBA‭!‬」Jean說道。原來他跟哥哥Pierre都嚐盡好酒,不論波爾多的一級莊,以至布根地的DRC,不同年份都一一品嚐過,他笑道:「這才可以知道自己的位置吧!」

German Riesling

The Trimbach I liked most that night is the Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile, an intense fruity style with balanced acidity and a long elegant finish, which really impressed me. This made me think of those great German Rieslings. “Compared to Germany, Alsace has longer summers, and cool nights which keeps the aroma of the grapes. We have less rain than Germany, too. Of course we have great wines and beautiful TBA from Germany, like those from my good friend, Egon Muller. I have some good collection of his TBA, too,” said Jean. He also tasted many good wines with his brother Pierre, too, from first growths in Bordeaux, to DRC in Burgundy, in almost every vintage. He laughed: “This way, we can compare ourselves with others!”

 

 

3. 龍皇三弄(脆醬鎮江龍蝦球, 花彫蛋白蒸龍蝦球, 無錫龍蝦球) Fresh lobster trio (sautéed prawn in Chinese black vinegar, steamed with yellow wine and egg white, stir fried with hot and sour sauce)

Trimbach Gewurztraminer AOC 2008

Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve AOC 2007

 

席上Jean也帶來稀少的Clos Sainte Hune,每年只有幾千枝。在明閣精心準備的中式菜加上Trimbach的多款美酒,自然是難忘的一晚,賓客對酒菜的配搭十分認同,更加不忘Jean經常提到得「Balance‭!‬ Balance‭!‬ Balnce‭!‬」。以後大家如要為配菜而傷腦筋的時候,不妨考慮找Trimbach的Alsace美酒。

During the dinner, Jean also brought their rare cuvée, Clos Sainte Hune. Only a few thousands bottles are produced each year. In the incredibly delicious dinner prepared by Ming Court, the wines shone, and we can see how delighted and surprised the guests were by the pairings. We never forgot what Jean always says: “Balance! Balance! Balance!” The next time you are stumped by what wines to match with dinner, consider Trimbach wines from Alsace.

 

 

4. 朗豪燒腩仔、當紅炸子鷄 Roasted crispy pork loin, deep fried crispy chicken

Trimbach Clos Ste Hune Riesling Alsace AOC 2004

 

 

5. 羊肚菌清湯牛腩 Braised beef brisket and mori mushroom with supreme soup in casserole

Trimbach Pinot Noir Réserve AOC 2009